How to install laminate flooring pt.2
Part 2: Installing Laminate Floors
- Underlayment is a material placed under flooring to provide a smooth and even installation surface. It comes in large rolls or as separate pieces that can be taped together. The use of an underlayment speeds installation, reduces walking noise, improves flooring stability and provides superior support and can also be a moisture barrier. Also, not using an underlayment voids most manufacturers warranties.
- Remove the shoe molding or quarter round from around the baseboard and also the doors from the installation area to be covered.
- The flooring planks need additional space to fit under doorframes. Place a piece of underlayment and laminate flooring next to the jamb to determine the required height, and cut out the desired area of the frame. You may need to purchase a flat saw called a door jamb undercut saw.
- Install the underlayment and make sure the edges don’t overlap unless underlayment has an overlap section (usually six to eight inches of just the moisture barrier). To prevent them from shifting, tape the pieces together. Create an expansion gap between the underlayment and walls by using spacers.
- If you’re placing a laminate floor on top of a concrete slab, apply a polyethylene plastic vapor barrier before installing the underlayment if yours does not include one already.
- Install flooring running perpendicular to your main light source for your room if possible. If there are multiple light sources or the room is extremely elongated install the length of the room’s longest side.
- The beginning wall of the flooring should be the most visible wall of those parallel to the installation.
- A good visual effect can be achieved by mixing planks from 3-4 different boxes at a time. The width of the joint between the tiles on each strip may vary. Using these strips and placing thin joints next to thick joints gives a more natural look.
- If your room is larger than 12 x 12, you must use ½ inch spacers to create expansion space around the border of the room and any pipes, doorframes, cabinets, or fixed objects etc.If your room is smaller, a gap of ¼ inch can work. These gaps allow for expansion and contraction. The exposed edges can be concealed with trim or molding.
- To install flooring around pipes, drill a hole in the plank that is half or a quarter inch larger than the pipe diameter. Cut the plank across the center of the circle, fit around the pipe on the floor, glue plank pieces back together and clamp (do not glue laminate to subfloor). Cover expansion gaps with molding or pipe rings when the floor is complete. Water pipes require silicone sealant.
- Use silicone to fill in gaps around exterior doors or appliances. Cover gaps with molding, either shoe molding or quarter round making sure to nail into the wall or baseboard and not the laminate.
2 Responses to “How to install laminate flooring pt.2”
July 29th, 2007 at 6:55 pm
[…] How to install laminate flooring pt.2 […]
August 24th, 2007 at 4:34 pm
[…] Part 2: Installing Laminate Floors. Underlayment is a material placed under flooring to provide a smooth and even installation surface. It comes in large rolls or as separate pieces that can be taped together. The use of an underlayment … by InstallGuru at 3:23 PM […]
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